The Avid Cruiser Takes On: Villefranche & Nice, Plus Eze & Saint Paul de Vence

In this episode, we visit the popular cruise destinations Villefranche & Nice, and we set out on shore excursions to Monte Carlo, Eze & Saint Paul de Vence.

Originally named by the ancient Greeks after Nike, the goddess of victory, Nice has been treasured and fought over ever since. It’s easy to understand why. The climate is sublime, the views are inspiring, and the harbor provides easy access. As a result, a diverse mix of people have called Nice home over the centuries, and it seems that each group left its fingerprints on the culture and development of the city and the surrounding countryside.

One of the oldest human settlements in the world with archeological sites dating to the Lower Paleolithic period, Nice offers an appealing blend of the historic and modern.

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The beachfront along the Promenade des Anglais. © Ralph Grizzle

Nice was part of the kingdom of Savoy until 1860, when it joined France. Still, the city retains its own Nicoise dialect as well as cuisine (think Nicoise salad) and traditions.

Nicoise Salad
Try an authentic Nicoise salad. © Ralph Grizzle

The old town (Vieux Nice) is worthy of full day visit, although it’s also a pleasant destination for evening.

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Take a stroll along the famous seaside Promenade des Anglais, perhaps the best-known seafront boulevard in the world. © Ralph Grizzle

For visitors, Nice is a treasure trove of activities and sites worthy of exploration and savoring. To start, take some unstructured time to wander at random through the narrow streets of the pedestrian-only Vieux Nice (Old Nice) and then stroll along the famous seaside Promenade des Anglais, perhaps the world’s best-known seafront boulevard. The “Prom” sweeps around the Bay of Angels and is flanked by beautiful belle epoque buildings, including the renowned Hotel Negresco. Take a look inside.

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Hotel Negresco, pictured far left. © Ralph Grizzle

While in the Old Nice, pay attention to the Baroque architecture. Built in 1885 as an imitation of the Palais Garnier in Paris, Opera de Nice is one of the most beautiful French theatres, due to its façade, its ceremonial staircase and painted ceiling.

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The Opera de Nice. © Ralph Grizzle

Also, across the street, the Eglise St. François de Paule, is an 18th century church that straddles the transition between Baroque and neoclassicism with its austere façade. A delightful square and site of the daily fish and herb market, Place St. François is overlooked by an 18th-century clock tower. Also be sure to visit the world-famous flower market every morning except Monday at Cours Saleya.

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Visit the market in Nice. © Ralph Grizzle

From Old Nice, you will want to find your way to La Colline du Chateau, “Castle Hill.” There are various possibilities for reaching the top of the hill: by foot through the streets of the old town or by taking the lift at Place du 8 Mai 1945 at the end of Rue des Ponchettes.

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From Promenade de Anglais, take the elevator to Castle Hill. © Ralph Grizzle

The hill is covered by a shady park full of Mediterranean trees, with an ornamental waterfall, and it offers an exceptional panorama over Nice and its surroundings. Little remains of the old fortress destroyed in 1706 except the relics of the Cathédrale Santa Maria de l’Assompta.

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Enjoy the park-like setting at Castle Hill. © Ralph Grizzle

Nice is home to dozens of a museums and galleries, more than 30 classified historical monuments and hundreds of acres of parks and gardens, woodland and green areas in addition to 150 ornamental lakes and fountains.

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The Villa Massena, one of the many museums in Nice. © Ralph Grizzle

Since the second century AD, the light of the city has attracted many famous French painters such as Chagall, Matisse and Niki de Saint Phalle. With leading lights such as these, it’s not surprising that Nice is home to museums of all kinds. Your personal preferences should dictate which of these museums you visit, but I present four for your consideration:

  • The Matisse Museum is a completely renovated 17th-century Genoan-style villa in the heart of the olive grove in the Gardens of Cimiez. The museum houses the personal collection of the great Fauvist painter who lived in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954. On display are works from all periods of he artist’s life. 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez.
  • Post-impressionist Marc Chagall helped design the Museum Marc Chagall where many of his large paintings, sculptures, mosaics and stained glass windows are on display. The museum was built to house Chagall’s 17 works of the “Biblical Message.” Avenue du Dr Ménard, corner of Boulevard de Cimiez.
  • In a splendid Belle Epoque setting, facing the Mediterrranean between the hotels Negresco and West End, the Villa Massena features contrasting landscapes both in intensity and character. This modern museum presents thousands of pieces in a chronological and thematic approach, covering the fertile period from Bonaparte and the Napoleonic Empire until the 1930s.
  • The Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art is an appropriately modern building — four grey marble towers linked by transparent walkways — with major permanent collections tracing the history of the European and American avant-garde since the early sixties. Promenade des Arts.
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One of my favorite restaurants in Nice is Da Acchiardo, located in the old town. 

The traditional cuisine of Nice, a delicate and healthy regimen, relies on the produce of the local countryside but also employs resources from more remote regions brought to town by trading ships from Northern Europe, for instance. Thus, one finds specialties such as those using stockfish made from dried haddock.

Nice is the origin of the culinary proverb that says fish are born in the sea and die in oil. Literally hundreds of restaurants, hotels and cafes offer wonderful menus, and I encourage you to discover the beauty of Nice cuisine. One of my favorites is Da Acchiardo in the old town. Come with cash. Credit cards are not accepted.

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Bring your appetite, but not your credit card, to Da Acchiardo. © Ralph Grizzle

A Few Hours In Villefranche

Villefranche is a simply stunning small harbor town between Monte Carlo and Nice. It’s a pleasant destination for a bike ride or a vigorous walk among the homes of the rich and famous who have chosen to settle here.

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The harbor in Villefranche, where big cruise ships often anchor. © Ralph Grizzle

A small town with beautiful scenery and buildings that are rich in Mediterranean colors, Villefranche is a charming place to spend a day soaking in the sights and flavors of the Côte d’Azur. Highlights include the Citadel, an exploration of the harbor and several free galleries and exhibits.

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Some consider the harbor in Villefranche to be the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. © Ralph Grizzle

Summer or winter, Villefranche is a stunning place. Its superb harbor is known to be one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Overlooking the hills and luxurious residences, Villefranche is one of the most exclusive spots on the French Riviera, dating back to 130 BC.

With its colorful fishing boats and nets, the port is both a base for fishermen and tourists, attracting numerous cruise ships in the summer. You can wander along the fishing wharves, bordered by restaurants and their terraces. If you continue until the end you will arrive at the lengthy Villefranche beach, which is pleasant from the very first days of summer.

Along the seafront in Villefranche. © Ralph Grizzle

You certainly will want to explore the Old Town, an intricate labyrinth of steep paved streets and lanes with limited automotive traffic access. The Promenade des Marinieres stretches along the waterfront lining the north side of the bay. A massive walled citadel built in 1557 lays on the water’s edge. Today, the ancient fortress houses the Town Hall, a convention center, three museums and an open air theatre.

Charming architecture in Villefranche
Charming architecture in Villefranche. © Ralph Grizzle

In the heart of old town, Église Saint-Michel was built in the 1750s in the baroque Italian style, and the church houses various works of art, notably a large Saint Michael painting above the marble main altar, an 18th century life-sized Christ sculpture and a polychrome wooden statue of San Rocco. The organ built by the Grinda Brothers in 1790 is one of the oldest in the area that still works.

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Be sure to take a look inside the tiny Chappelle St. Pierre. © Ralph Grizzle

Still in the Old Town, stop in at Chappelle St. Pierre, the 14th century chapel decorated during a 1957 restoration by celebrated artist Jean Cocteau. The first thing to remember in the chapel is that’s not paint on the walls. It’s chalk — mysteriously well-preserved chalk frescoes. This tiny chapel was Cocteau’s heartfelt tribute to his friends in Villefranche, connecting images of Jesus to the fisherman and other villagers.

One particularly touching mural provides insights into a way of life that no longer exists, when the village’s unique dress and dialect were still intact.

Villefranche offers numerous art collections, including the Art and History museum, the Goetz-Boumeester collection with works by Picasso and Picabia, and the Fondation-Musée Volti featuring contemporary sculptures.

Numerous cafes can be found in the Old Town when you need to take a break, and the restaurants along the fishing wharves specialize in mouthwatering Mediterranean cuisine.

More Avid Cruiser Posts, Photographs and Videos Featuring Nice.

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More Avid Cruiser Posts, Photographs and Videos Featuring Villefranche. [catlist id=’671′ numberposts=-1]

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